Dana Biosphere Reserve

On the morning of July 21 we left Amman to begin our southern tour of Jordan. The first stop on our journey: Dana Biosphere Reserve. Comprised of 308 square km of desert, mountains, and canyons, Dana is the largest nature reserve in Jordan. Yes, it was hot. Yes, we were (AGAIN) the only ones who had the courage (or stupidity) to visit a desert in Jordan in the summer. But the payoff was stunning beauty. We had stumbled upon this unbelievable place, and we were lucky to be able to share it with the local Bedouins who more than lived up to their famous hospitality.

The Feynan Ecolodge in Dana is considered one of the best ecolodges in the world, and we were about to find out why. This place runs entirely on solar power and at night, the lodge is set aglow by hundreds of candles. The lodge is beautifully (and thoughtfully) constructed, it’s almost as it has been carved out of a single piece of sandstone. The staff is composed of all people from the local community, and they sell products such as soap and leather made at the site. In an effort to save plastic, all the water in the rooms is contained in clay jars.

Once again, the history and natural beauty of this place was surpassed by the people we met. Our guide, Suleiman, a local Bedouin was knowledgeable, charming, and very funny. He guided us on hikes throughout the desert, took us stargazing, and showed off his off-roading skills in his truck.

We wished we had more time to spend at the lodge going on more hikes, learning about Bedouin cooking, or spending a day with a shepherd, but we had to move on to Aqaba!

July 21 - On our ride to Dana we passed this marker. We would DESCEND another 300 meters before we’d reach the lowest part of Jordan, where the Dead Sea is located. 

3 hours after passing that sign, we made it to Feynan Ecolodge!

One way the lodge mitigates the sweltering heat: horizontal shingles provide shade to the walls.

Map of Dana

Water for guests at the lodge is kept in clay jars. This keeps the water cool and reduces waste.

Leaving for our sunset hike with our guide, Suleiman.

It really felt like we were the only people in the desert. 

The tent of one of Suleiman’s neighbors, Amir, who is also a guide at Feynan.

LOOGIT THAT VIEW

Suleiman making his famous Bedouin Tea. Ingredients: water, sugar, black tea, sage, and his secret ingredient: love. 

I don’t like tea. I’m a coffee guy. But this was the best tea I’ve ever had in my life. I was GOBSMACKED.

NO AMIR YOU CANNOT HAVE MY TEA.

After we returned from our hike, the lodge had been transformed into this.

Stargazing after dinner with Suleiman and his telescope. The images are from putting my phone lens against the telescope. Not too shabby! Left: two images of the moon. Top right: Jupiter and 4 of its moons. Bottom right: Saturn.

July 22 - About to dive into this gorgeous spread before hiking up the Wadi. A wadi is an Arabic word that means a valley, ravine, or channel that is dry except in the rainy season.

Suleiman showing us how his mother spins goat hair into yarn.

Suleiman’s home during the summer months - that open-air building stays amazingly cool!

We have begun hiking up the Wadi!

Requisite selfie.

More of Suleiman’s tea!!

A shepherd who joined us for tea. Suleiman always brings extra teacups with him so that he can offer tea to anyone who might come along. 

His goats joined us as well.